Papua Was a Rolling Stone

Day 10: (Danny) It's hard to believe that we’ve already left our second country and have been in Papua New Guinea for five days. When we landed in this nation of tribes and villages, I sensed the presence of pain and struggle. I think we were all nervous with security briefings but kept an open mind. We’re New Yorkers, after all, and used to being aware in our surroundings. The airport personnel and transport crew were really sweet and our gear made it off the plane safely and into the trucks to our hotel in Port Moresby.

I noticed that most of our crew had what looked like bloody teeth and mouths. I was a little freaked out at first but soon found out the red teeth came from chewing betel nuts mixed with mustard root and dipped in lime (crushed coral) powder. The combination turns your gums, teeth and mouth a dark bloody red. Betel nuts also have a very intoxicating effect if chewed all day and is likened to chewing tobacco.Our hotel was up the hill from Ela Beach and the views of the harbor and ocean were spectacular. We were confined to our hotel at night but I decided to take an afternoon walk to the beach. First, I stood outside the gates of the hotel for a few moments. Then, I ventured across the street and finally, I walked down the hill and onto the beach. There were lots of people out so I felt pretty safe. People would wave and say, "hi," but I sensed this place could get serious after dark. With an 80% unemployment rate, there is, sadly, a lot of poverty and strife and the time to get into trouble. That said, I saw no violence, crime or anything that made me uncomfortable. I met only humble, beautiful and welcoming people in Papua New Guinea. Despite statistics and a reputation of poverty, the children and people were all smiling and gracious. The island itself is a paradise of unparalleled beauty and that green tropical richness is evident in the hearts and souls of its people.

It makes me realize how spoiled I am and that just beyond the doors of my posh hotel, there were children living in shacks made from cans and tires. They have no shoes, no running water or electricity, but persevere despite their dire circumstances.Our first event was an outdoor performance at the American Ambassador’s home on a hill overlooking the bay. We played a couple of sets for the Ambassador’s guests, local business leaders, embassy folks and Papua New Guinea government ministers. Everyone had a good time. For us, it was but a glimpse into mainstream Papua New Guinea society within the capital city.Over the next few days, we conducted some master classes and concerts at the International School and an outdoor Catholic parish house. Although the Melanesian culture is shy and humble, once they are immersed in the musical experience, they open up and embrace the spirit. We had very similar experiences in Fiji but realize, now, that no one wanted to seem pushy or be perceived as greedy. We had so much fun working with the local people and students and they seemed to have fun with us. I believe we learned something from each other.On our first full day in Papua New Guinea, we took a boat ride across Bootless Bay to Loloata Island. As soon as we walked down the long dock, we were greeted by these large blue birds crested with peacock-like feathers. The Papua New Guinea pigeons, originally from the mainland are much prettier than their New York City counterparts.We were greeted by little Wallaby kangaroos hopping around the area. We saw a tree kangaroo and some beautiful, but noisy, parrots. The staff on Loloata Island prepared a great breakfast for us and showed us around the grounds, which were right on the bay. Then, we boarded a small skiff and ferried to another small island beach for snorkeling.I’d never snorkeled off a coral reef before and was blown away by the colors and variety of fish and fauna. I didn’t want to get out of the water and stayed in until the boat took us back to Loloata Island.

When we got back, we had an amazing lunch and bought some gifts to take home. We signed some CDs for the staff and left for the main island and the city. Words can't describe how beautiful the islands are and I'm not sure the pictures can do them justice either. I would love to stay on Loloata Island next time I come back to Papua New Guinea.Last night, we played an outdoor concert at the Ela beach amphitheater. The U.S. Ambassador and the Port Moresby Governor introduced us to the crowd after a great local vocal group opened up the concert. We had so much fun and found out that it was the first ever nighttime concert held at the venue.At the end of the concert, they presented our band with a beautiful wooden Kundu drum which has a lizard skin.We are flying to Singapore today and I’m exited to go to a new country but part of my heart is staying behind in Papua New Guinea. It was once sung, “Wherever he laid his hat was his home.” Well, I would like to hang my hat here again someday and pray that the beautiful people of Papua New Guinea continue to persevere and protect this beautiful island country preserving its beauty for future generations.